National Archeological Park of San Agustín
Without any doubts, it is the region’s main touristic attraction, because the highest concentration of monumental stone statuary is found here, characteristic and representative for the today called ‘Augustinian Culture.’ Because of its richness and archeological importance it was declared Cultural World Heritage by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) in 1995.
The park is situated at only 2.5 km from San Agustín’s center and can be reached on an asphalted street. It consists of four big sculptural complexes, associated with funeral monuments as well as other architectural buildings, engineering and sculptures, distributed in a beautiful and well conserved area of around 80ha.
This landscape is the result of big movements of earth, realized through the Augustinians, which transformed the original, natural environment, giving it the configuration which the visitants observe and explore today, including the ‘Mesitas’ A, B, C and D(signifying small tables) , also called ‘Mesetas’ (plateaus.). Those four big funeral mounds were constructed artificially, and flattened on their tops. They are separated by artificial containment and embankments, like the one at the entrance of the park, between the ‘Mesita D’ and the doorway of the ‘Mesitas’.
A trip through the whole park is realized on shaded, paved trails and will take you between three and four hours. It is well marked and signalized, there is explicit information to each of the different archeological sites. At the entrance and exit of the park, and at halfway of the trip, next to the ‘Fuente de Lavapatas,’ there are shops that offer coffee and other ailments.
Here and there you can find banks and kiosks, for relaxation of the visitors, but it is essentially wearing comfortable shoes and a hat, as well as carrying enough water for enjoying the trip.
Mesita A
In this artificially leveled zone, that was the first one of the ‘Mesitas, in being exposed to public, protrude the biggest funeral mounds encountered up to now, which before their excavation were 4 m high and 30 m wide.
On the eastern mound, you will find a dolmen with a main statue. It represents an imposing, male figure with sharp fangs. In his hands he carries something which has been interpreted as an instrument for chewing coca. On his side there are two warriors or guardians armed with cudgels. They are further equipped with a double self, another figure over their heads, that combines human and animal features, of wild cats and reptiles, including a spiral curled tail. On the other mound there is a main figure too, accompanied by guardians with shields and spears but without a double self.
Around those two mounds, there are numerous simple tombs of different epochs and equipped with many different statues. The sculpture at the entrance of the ‘Mesita’ stands out because of its altitude of approximately 2, 5 m. It wears a loincloth in form of an inwards staggered pyramid, crossed fangs and ornamentations on its head and ears.
Mesita B
At the top of a hill, that was flattened for this very proposes, the Augustinians constructed three funeral mounds. In each one of them there is a dolmen with some type of table made out of stone slabs put over the vertical stones that contain a central figure, outstanding because of the size, quality and complexity of the sculptural work. It is accompanied by other statues, identified as guardians or warriors. Behind those figures there is a main tomb with a sarcophagus and around them, there are numerous simpler tombs and smaller statues.
This ‘Mesita’ was discovered by archeologists in a relatively well conserved state, what was useful for further knowledge and understanding of original disposition of the funeral complex’s pieces. Therefore it has been used as an example and model for restoration of the ‘Mesitas’ C and D as well as for the reconstruction of other sites that have been looted or destroyed.
Some of the most famous sculptures of San Agustín are localized in this site like the owl, eagle or hawk, holding a snake with its beak and claws, the huge triangular face with a smiling face, crossed fangs of a wild cat, circular cheeks, maybe indicating the use of coca and big opened eyes which look westwards and the popularly called ‘ Partera’ (midwife)or ‘Obispo’ ( bishop,) a huge figure of 4.2 m, which shows two adult persons, one upright, the other one with its head pointing to the ground, the first one holds a child in its hands which after some interpretations represents birth and after others it is an evidence of cannibalism.
Mesita C
This ‘Mesita’ has been looted for a long period of time before the intervention of the archeologists and restorers. There was no evidence found of residential occupation before the construction of the monument like it is the case in ‘Mesita’ A and ‘Mesita’ B. This ‘Mesita’ consisted of a mound surrounded by 15 sculptures and 49 simple tombs. Currently, there are 4 statues being exhibited, but some more which were localized here originally, can be observed in ‘El Bosque de las Estatuas.’
A notable characteristic of the sculptures’ majority is that they are made out of big, flat slabs, carved superficially, features which stand in contrast with the statues of ‘Mesita’ A and B, where blocks have been used for sculpturing. The conclusion of some studies is that those sculptures are younger, less elaborated and presenting less details but a higher level of abstraction.
One statue is especially interesting and unusual because it is three-dimensional, composed by two similar figures with human and animal features united at the back like Siamese. Another extraordinary sculpture is male, wears the mouth of a wild cat, a crown made out of feathers, a nose ring and wide wings that almost reach the ends of the face and tunic. In its left arm it holds some kind of lasso which has been interpreted as an instrument of ritual use.
Mesita D and Archeological Museum
This ‘Mesita’ hosts a funeral mound and a group of sculptures which have been brought here from different places of San Agustín and Isnos and were reunited here for protection and exhibition.
In the museum you can admire collections of statues, ceramic containers, funeral urns, jewelry, stone tools, utensils, headpieces, necklaces, masks, blowguns, arrows, drums and other elements, including the ethnics of other regions in Colombia.
Its area has been destined for offering museum scripts and mounts, which allow observing permanent and temporal collections. The granted information admits appreciating the exposed pieces’ context. Its aula is used for different cultural and artistic activities of the museum as well as extern ones. The library hosts a collection specialized in archeology and anthropology, about the local culture and other parts of the country and the laboratories of investigation are a meeting place for scientists and academics.
Very close of the ‘Mesita’ and the museum there is a shop which offers touristic guiding services, its personal is specialized in guiding the tour around the National Archeological Park San Agustín. From here you can take the trail which leads to the ‘Bosque de las Estatuas’ and the artificial embankment, which connects with the other ‘Mesitas’ A, B and C is located here too.
Alto de Lavapatas
‘El Alto de Lavapatas’ is the park’s highest hill and offers a beautiful sight of the surrounding landscape. Under other statues you can find here one of the most popular and complex double self-representations which shows a figure that carries or holds another human and animal creatures over its head and back, most probably this symbolizes the ritual transformation of the shaman. The archeological findings of this hill show that the zone was occupied by humans more than three thousand years ago.
The ascent is of little difficulty and can be realized from the ceremonial source ‘ Alto de Lavapatas’ by a trail, which leads through the forest, passes some farms and finally ends on the beautiful peaks with tombs and sculptures.
Fuente de Lavapatas
‘La Fuente de Lavapatas’ is an elaborated and sophisticated piece of art which results of the process of carving, sculpturing and making reliefs into the rocky bed of the canyon which is named after it. Here, the Augustinians formed intricate, subtle, anthropomorphic and zoomorphic figures under which protrude heads, human faces, reptiles that wind up canals and ponds in the water and on the rocks. Further, it is one of the few works that the Archeological Park of San Agustín which is not associated with funeral rituals.
Bosque de las Estatuas
Crossing a wavy trail which leads through a small forest, you get to an ‘open air museum’ close to the administrative headquarters of the park of San Agustín and other communities where 39 statues are exposed. We are referring to the ‘Bosque de las Estatuas’ a circuit, surrounded by a vegetation marked by a trail made out of aligned stones, ideal for having a walk.
The statue’s majority has been looted and moved to land estates or to the town of San Agustín and other municipalities. Later, they were recovered by the cultural authorities and taken to the park, where the decision of exposing them to the public in this scenery has been taken, what enables the visitant to appreciate as well the native flora and fauna.
Even though they are not located in their original place, between the sculptures situated in the forest there are some of the most emblematic, representative and iconic Augustinian statues. Therefore this is a highly recommended tour for all visitants.
Archeological park Alto de las Piedras
Another pre-Hispanic, ceremonial center of big relevance for the region, you can´t come around visiting it, is the’ Alto de las Piedras,’ which is part of the National Archeological Park of San Agustín, declared cultural world heritage by the UNESCO.
One statue is particularly notable, it is called ‘ double self’, an anthropomorphic figure with 2 m of altitude, a wild cat’s fangs, carrying above its body another figure which combines human and animal features and one more behind its bottom with zoomorphic features. For many, this is the most elaborated and complex (on the level of technic as well as of symbolism) piece of art of Augustinian statuary. Here, you can also find the deepest tombs and some which conserve rests of original paint in yellow, red, black and white.
Other figures can be observed here too that represent aspects of daily life, like pregnancy, represented by a woman wearing a necklace and a hut, with a warrior that holds a stick in its hands on its side.
For getting to those sites you should take the road, that leaving form ISNOS conduces to the ‘ Salto de Bordones’ and travel 6 km, while observing the ‘ Cerro de la Horqueta’, an inactive volcano of archeological, regional importance, as well as cultivations and forests. The’ Alto de las Piedras’ builds part of the touristic circle which usually is visited by vehicle but it can be done on horseback or walking as well.
After visiting the hill, you can continue on the same unpaved road another 8 km, till you arrive at ‘Salto d Bordones,’ a beautiful waterfall which represents another one of the region’s most famous touristic attractions. It is known for its impressing landscape. On the sides of the street there are cultivations of sugar cane and mills that allow you knowing the process of ‘panela’ production.
Imagen p.48: Monumental statue: Archeological Park Alto de los Idolos
Archeological Park Alto de los Idolos
‘El Alto de los Idolos’ is localized in the municipality of Isnos, it forms part of the National Archeological Park of San Agustín, declared Cultural World Heritage by the UNESCO. It is the second most important site referring to number and concentration of archeological pieces; here you can observe 23 statues that witness the extraordinary sculptural capacity of Augustinian culture.
From the entrance, a paved trail of 300 m conduces to an artificial mound constructed in pre-Hispanic times, uniting the ‘Mesita’ A and B. There, you can find, distributed over seven mounds with monumental tombs; dolmens (some kind of table, made out of stone slabs, localized above the vertical stones,) sarcophagi of big sizes, (some of them conserve its carved covers) as well as anthropomorphic and zoomorphic figures.
The tour around the park can be realized in one hour, walking on an undulating terrain with beautiful native vegetation.
Some of the pieces that are most attractive for the visitants of the region are situated in this site. Here, you can find pieces of bigger size, that reach up to more than 5 m, as well as figures in the form of a lizard or an alligator and sculptures that conserve rests of original painting, used by the Augustinian and the decorative elements of the figure’s attire.
There are different possibilities of accessing the site. The first one is from the town of San Agustín, passing through Isnos, the second one is leaving from San Agustín in direction of the Magdalena’s narrow and Obando. You can leave as well from San Agustín walking or on horseback on a way of 12 km which takes you first to the ‘Chaquira’ and then crosses the river Magdalena, over an antique wooden bridge, passing different waterfalls of the Magdalena’s canyon.
P.49 imagen arriba: Cover of a Sarcophagus: Archeological Park Alto de los Idolos
Imagen Abajo: Double self
La Chaquira
This figure, as well as other reliefs, carvings and petroglyphs that represent human faces and animal figures, which the visitant can identify while observing the rocks from near, differ from other Augustinian sculptures because they are not part of any funeral monument, nor were they excavated and restored by archeologists. Instead they are conserved ‘in situ’ (in its original place.) the ‘Chaquira’ is carved in a big stone, lifting her arms towards the sky and looking eastwards.
At a distance of a few meters from the statue, there is a spectacular viewpoint, from where the visitant can enjoy the view over the river Magdalena and its canyon.
After a short descent, first on a zigzag trail and afterwards on a stone stair that leads you to a complex of viewpoints, you will find a series of reliefs, carvings and petroglyphs that represent human faces and animal figures and can be discovered while observing the rocks closely.
At halfway, there is a shop, where you can buy fruits, handcrafts and potable water. Once arrived at the ‘Chaquira’, you can simply enjoy the canyon’s view, surrounded by waterfalls, birds across the sky and farms.
Imagen: Canyon of the river Magdalena
‘La Chaquira’ is located at 4.5 km from the town of San Agustín. There are two ways in getting there: First, as the site lies close by, you can do it walking or on horseback from town, what will take you around an hour. This possibility can be combined with an anterior visit of’ El Tablón’ and a posterior visit of ‘La Pelota’ and ‘ El Purutal’, as all those sites lie on the same route at little distance one from another. The second possibility is, taking a car to the entrance of ‘El Tablón’ , from there walking to ‘La Chaquira’ and going back to ‘ El Tablón’, where you can take a car again, that will take you to ‘La Pelota’ and ‘El Purutal.’
Imagen izquierda:‘ La Chaquira,’ seen from the other side of the canyon
Imagen derecha: The Chaquira’s viewpoints
El Purutal
‘El Purutal’ is one of San Agustín’s most captivating archeological sites because here you can see the only two statues that preserved their color well. Most probably, the statue’s majority was originally painted in a similar way. They are painted in yellow, white, black and red, in different tones of vegetal and mineral colors, covering the head, the torso, the face and the statues’ attire what helps to accentuate and exalt their characteristics and expression. The figures are located in a complex funerary and they mix human and animal elements, what is typical for Augustinian statuary.
From San Agustín you can take the road that leads to the river Magdalena’s narrow, walk one km, turn left after passing the farm ´El Cielo’ and walk another 3 km on an unpaved road. You can do the journey by car, horseback on foot. On your way you can enjoy a hilly landscape, surrounded by different cultivations and forests. On the way and on the foot of the hill there are shops that sell beverages and food. On the foot of the hill you will also leave your car or horse, for walking the last 500 m uphill.
You can combine this trip with the visit of other archeological sites. ‘El Tablón’, ‘La Chaquira’ and ‘La Pelota’ lie close by. The last one is located at 200 m from ‘El Purutal.’ Visiting all of those sites will take you around 3 hours on horseback and a little more on foot.
La Pelota
Imagen p. 55: Statuary: La Pelota
The hill and the archeological site, both called ‘La Pelota’, are located at 7 km from San Agustín. Here, a funerary temple had been situated, which was looted. Unfortunately, only the three statues that you can see today were left in its place.
Especially interesting is the figure of the owl, eagle or hawk that with its triangular beak and its claws holds a snake whose tail is twisted, forming a spiral line or snail. This statue is very similar to the one of Mesita B of the Archeological Park in San Agustín, but the figure of ‘La Pelota’ is a bit rougher and smaller.
You can reach this site easily while walking, riding on horseback or by any type of car, taking the road leading to Obando. However, the last 200m of ascent need to be done walking. This site is located at a distance of 100m from ‘El Purutal,’ where you can find the only Augustinian statues that preserved their color.
El Tablón
El Tablón is located at 2 km from San Agustín’s center, in the district which is named after it. Here, you can see five statues that were encountered on a property in the north of their actual localization. They were brought here for protection and conservation.
What is interesting is, that all the figures seem to be female. One figure protrudes, because of its altitude (more than 2 m), its abundant ornaments: headdress, robe, nose ring and pectoral. Another figure is interesting because it shows clearly human and animal features: The hands and mouth of an animal, similar to a wild cat, an ape’s nose and ornaments on its ears, nose and head. Apart its skirt shows many ornaments too, what leads to the conclusion that the Augustinians knew how to use textiles and fibers for making dresses.
You can reach ‘El Tablón’ easily by car, on horseback or on foot, leaving from San Agustín on the asphalted road which leads to Obando. After traveling 1.5 km, turn right and you will find a well signalized trail and walk on it another 500m before reaching ‘El Tablón’. Fallowing this way another 3 km, walking or on horseback you can get to ’La Chaquira.’
Museum of Obando
Four sub terrain tombs of the pre- Hispanic epoch, conserved in their original place and today protected by some kind of huts, form at the same time the main park and the Archeological Museum of Obando. The museum counts as well with a teaching room and a shop, that sells handcrafts, candy and traditional homemade sweets produced in this municipality, located 12 km from San Agustin and 3 km from the river Magdalena’s narrow.
Obando is a small village, which is inhabited by less than 1000 people, still under the region’s most attractive touristic destinations, because of its archeological and cultural richness.
Imagen: Handcraft shop
In the museum you can see models that show how the interaction between the antique habitants of the region could have been. The main characteristics and interpretations of Augustinian culture, based on studies about the statues, some stone artifacts and pieces of pottery found in the sector, are explained on information panels.
In the village’s restaurants you can find regional plates, like roasted Winnipeg or ‘Tamales’ ( delicious dish made out of maize.) There are also some hostels which offer accommodation for the visitants. The village’s main source of income is agriculture, what includes cultivation of sugar cane. It is possible to visit a mill and watch the production of ‘ panela.’
While visiting the museum, the visitants can appreciate an ideogram about the Colombian flora and fauna as well as about the aboriginal culture’s immigration from the Amazonas to San Agustín
Municipal Archeological Museum Júlio César Cubillos Chaparro
Two lytic sculptures as well as other Augustinian elements, welcome you to the Municipal Archeological Museum Júlio Cubillos Chaparro.
The museum consists of two small rooms, located in the House of Culture, which lies in the center of San Agustín. Pieces exhibited are: Pre- Colombian dresses in a collection of around 200 pieces, ceramic pieces, funeral urns, lytic artifacts and wooden sarcophagi.
This place opened its doors on 7th of October 1994. Its creation was the result of an initiative, in collaboration with a group of local cultural managers, in coordination with the community’s authorities and with advice of the Colombian Institute of Anthropology and History (ICANH,) responsible of the Archeological pieces’ registration and cataloging.
The museum’s name is dedicated to the archeologist Julio César Cubillos Chaparro from the Cauca valley. He developed important projects of investigation in the region in the sixties and seventies.
Direction: Carrera 11 No. 3-61
Timetable: Monday to Friday form 8 a.m. to 12. a.m. and from 2 p.m. to 6 p. m.
Museum of Villa Real
The pre-Colombian museum of Villa Real hosts a private collection, specialized in the pottery of Augustinian culture.
The collection is exhibited in the house of the main owner and guide: Libardo Sotelo Menses and his family. Here, you can admire lytic artifacts, vessels employed for different daily uses like cooking aliments or as funeral urns.
Rosiberio Sotelo, Libardo’s father started the collection of those elements in past decades. During many years, he acquired the pieces form farmers which had encountered them on their properties and from other collectors. Currently, the collection exhibits 450 pieces. In 1996 they were registered by the Colombian Institute of Anthropology and History.
Direction: Calle 5 No. 12-35, in the zone of San Antonio, few blocks from the main park Simón Bolívar.
Timetable: Monday to Friday from 8 a. m. to 12 a.m. and from 2 p. m. to 6 p. m.
Other sites of archeological importance
The experts have identified traces of Augustinian culture in an area of approximately 300 square kilometers. Hundreds of sites with archeological potential have been identified in this area. The majority of them are residences or workplaces. Only approximately 65 megalithic figures have been encountered and 20 of them can be accessed by the public.
The major concentration of sculptures is found in the National Park of San Agustín, the Alto de los Idolos and in nearby areas, like the sites of ‘La Chaquira,’ ‘El Tablón,’ ‘La Pelota,’ ‘ El Purutal’ and ‘ El Alto de las Piedras.’ Those are the most attractive and most visited places. But there are various other places in the zone with important vestiges. In the province of San Agustín the statues of ‘El Tabor’, ‘El Rosario’, ‘Quebradillas’,’ La Parada’,’ Pradera,Quinchana’, ‘La Chinas’ and ‘El Jabón’ are notable. In Isnos you should visit ‘El Alto de Las Guacas’, ‘Betania’, ‘El Tigre’ and ‘Granada’.
In those archeological sites you can find small complexes of statues and individual sculptures, localized in particular land estates that can be accessed easily, because generally, they are close to the road or some trail and at little distance from the village, you can combine the visit of some of those sites with other touristic attractions.
Some sculptures of little interest or signification are located close to the main headquarters of the Archeological Park. In some cases, like for example ’La Parada’ or ‘Quebradillas’, the visitant can find extraordinary pieces referring to culture and esthetic and therefore it is absolutely worth the journey for visiting them.
The Magdalena’s Narrow
The river Magdalena’s narrowest part is localized in San Agustín. Here, the waters of Colombia’s most important stream are forced to pass a narrow canyon formed out of rocks.
Although it travelled already 65 km from its source, never, not even at its point of departure (Laguna de La Magdalena), it reaches such narrowness, like here (2.2 m!.) In comparison, its widest part, localized in the community of Plato in the Caribe, reaches 1.073.
The river’s wideness is 15 m when meeting with the rocky formation, that has been carved out of the rocks during years, and in this way created a canal of 40 m of length and 2.2 m of wideness in its narrowest part.
The Magdalena’s narrow is located at 9 km from San Agustín’s center. You get there, on a street, which is not completely asphalted, but suitable for any type of car. After crossing a bridge over the river, you will descend 150 m on a trail. It is easily passable and ends in a wide zone inhabiting the famous narrow. At the entrance, there is a house where the family Becerra Rengifo sells handcrafts, known for its works in banana fibers, out of which they make bags, huts, money bags and many other objects. In the same place, there is a shop, which offers beverages and regional food.
The narrow is located at the bottom of a canyon with high stone walls, which function as walls, surrounded by the primary forest. Here, the tourists can relax for a while, listening to the sound of the river and walking along the river’s shore.
Some meters below it is possible to submerge the hands into the river, walking between stones in which small canals of clean and diaphanous water, are formed. They permit observing easily the different tones of the Magdalena. This place is also departure for tours, sport activities like rafting, which usually are realized regularly in the waters.
Waterfall Bordones
A waterfall appears out of the canyon’ s walls when the river Bordones, which arrives quietly on the mountain’s edge, falls down hundreds of meters and gets lost between the vegetation and the dense forest, which hide the waterfall’ s end.
From the nearest mountains you can appreciate the canyon’s beauty and the waterfall of Bordones, which for longtime was considered Colombia’s highest one, with approximately 400 m. But later the waterfall ‘La Chorrera in Choachí (Cundinamarca) was discovered. It protrudes Bordones with 590 m.
This waterfall is called into existence, when the river Bordones, whose source is found in the moor of Puracé, is forced to descend the canyon’s steep walls, after jumping four times, it arrives at the bottom and is transformed into the river Magdalena. This place represents at the same time the border between the municipalities of Isnos and Saladoblanco.
From Isnos, the journey takes 14 km. The road passes the Archeological Park ‘Alto de las Piedras,’ and then goes on to the district of Bordones. In the days of high touristic influx, a group of children guides offer the most important explications about the waterfall and its environment.
It is located approximately 1.800 m.a.s.l., which allows fishing in some sections of the river. The most commune specie is the trout and can be tasted in the district’s restaurants.
Waterfall Mortiño
The brook ‘El Mortiño’, that passes farms and forests, breaks the usual appearance of the landscape when it arrives at the mountain’s edge and falls into a canyon that was formed by the river over the years, while being transformed into a waterfall of 170 m, before merging, a lot later, into the river Magdalena. This natural attraction is called: ‘El Mortiño’.
Contemplating this impatient geological failure form a mountain close by, serving as natural point of view, or forming a construction that looks like a balcony at first sight, you can appreciate the waterfall, the canyon’s conformation and the fog that appears because of the water falling on the stones.
While traveling through San Agustín and the municipality of Isnos you can see many waterfalls, because of the ravine’s geography, but the waterfall of Mortiño is one of the most outstanding ones because of its height and its localization, which allow an easy observation. It is one of the most visited ones in the zone of Augustinian culture. This natural spectacle is situated in the district of Mortiño, belonging to the municipality of Isnos. For getting there, you should take the road that leads to Isnos, after 5km take a private trail of 500 m where you can find a small shop too.
Waterfall Tres Chorros
This waterfall is special because it is formed by three streams of water. Therefore it is called: ‘Tres Chorros.’ It presents an altitude of 25 m and is a touristic attraction, as well as a commune destination for adventure sports, like torrentism.
The three streams are formed, when the river Mulales runs down the spaces formed out of the rocks. The landscape darkens, because of the dense forest which surrounds it, but the light which is filtered between the vegetation, illuminating the waterfall, makes it even more special because it brightens the white color of the falling water. This area is inhabited by different birds and many flowers like for example orchids.
After some interpretations and popular knowledge of San Agustín, the pre- Colombian indigenous people came here to worship, because it is a place of big energy and natural beauty. The professionals in and fans of torrentism, a form of abseiling (descending on strings), but in waterfalls, find an ideal place of practice here.
It is recommended, to first take a car form San Agustín to Tapias , for getting to ‘ Los Tres Chorros’ (about one hour).’ In this place no ruins are conserved, but still it is historical, because here, San Agustín was founded for the first time, in the beginning of the 18th century. Here, the road which can be traversed by vehicle, ends. Hence from here you will travel for another hour, walking or riding a horse, on a path, that first crosses the farming zone and then leads into the primary forest.
Viewpoint above the Magdalena
Imagen: Viewpoint above the Magdalena
From this relaxing viewpoint, located on the top of a mountain, you can observe the canyon of the river Magdalena. From here you can see forest zones, waterfalls, mountains and valleys, as well as farms cultivating coffee; all of this makes it an incredible landscape for any visitor. It is an ideal place for having a break, relaxing or for practicing sports like paragliding, thanks to its localization at the edge of the canyon and river Magdalena’s valley’s flat lands.
Constructed at an altitude of 300 above the river’s valley, this viewpoint, in the form of a horseshoe, makes part of the Agro touristic Land Estate and Viewpoint of the Magdalena. A site, which offers accommodation, as well as the chance to get away from urban areas and contemplate the magnitude of the area, even at night. Another one of its attractions is an ecological trail, leading through a natural forest, passing cultivations of coffee, sugar cane, kidney beans. The estate also offers a restaurant service and a solon for social events.
Magdalena’s lagoon
Standing exactly at the place where the river Magdalena is called into life, at the lagoon which carries the same name, localized in the Colombian Massif, fascinated by other bodies of water, that are genesis of important streams of the country, makes part of one of the most attractive journeys for hiking and nature lovers.
Magdalena’s lagoon is situated in the National Natural Park of Puracé, on the border of the departments Huila and Cauca. In this very zone, the rivers Patía, Cauca and Caquetá, are called into life.
Getting there and back from San Agustín, takes three or four days. We recommend the second possibility, because, in this way you will be able to appreciate the natural attractions with more time. Further you should be accompanied by a guide. As you ascend the Massif, with the Magdalena as the axis of the road, you can enjoy the watching birds, the primary forest and some waterfalls, like the river Mulales’ one known as ‘ Los tres Chorros’ in the real Puerto Quinchana.
The first day you will leave by vehicle from San Agustín, after an hour and a half, you will arrive in Puerto Quinchana. From here on you will continue the journey on foot or on horseback. For making the journey easier, it is recommended, hiring a horse for carrying the bags. It will take you five hours more in arriving in San Antonio, where you pass the first night. It is normal, that the guides prepare activities at night like fishing or visiting the Children cemetery in the village of Gaitana.
The second day, you will leave early for the Colombian Massif. During the trip of six hours, a beautiful flora and fauna will accompany you and you will see places like the moor of ‘ La Papas,’ and lagoons like the one of Santiago and Cusiyaco, where you can do fishing. At night, you will descend to the village ‘La Oyola’ part of the province Valencia (Cauca.)
The third day you will go back to San Antonio, but on a different route, which allows you to get a lot closer to Magdalena’s lagoon, with its surface of 6.5 ha. Espeletiaand mist will accompany you on this journey. The fourth day, you go back from San Antonio to Puerto Quinchana and from there, again to San Agustín.
The touristic companies offer packages which include a guide, accommodation, beverages and food.
Walking, hiking, bird watching and enjoying nature
Visiting San Agustín and Isnos means enjoying beautiful landscapes, hiking, walking and watching birds, activities that are facilitated by the benefits of nature in this zone of Huila.
The characteristics of those mountains, belonging to the Colombian Massif, with canyons like the one of the river Magdalena, high peaks, hills and waterfalls, natural forests and farms satisfy the taste of whom is observing the landscape. There are many hills that you can climb for observing the fantastic panoramic.
Those characteristics mingle with paths that lead to different destinations and thermal levels. They are transited by hikers in search of special experiences like visiting the valleys, situated close by and in template grounds or moor zones. Some of the paths are of indigenous origin.
Other routes are necessary for walking, while leaving from the urban centers. They are suitable for any type of person and offer equally the option to observe the beautiful landscape and getting to the zone of archeological interest.
Everyone that likes bird watching will be happy to find a high number and variety of species, even close to the urban zone. It is common to see expert and amateur ornithologists, walking with binoculars and specialized publications in their hands.
Nature tourism
Imagen: Mr. Arnulfo Leguízamo on his coffee farm
Observing the process of coffee production on a typical farm and the elaboration of ‘panela’ with a farmer’s mill are two touristic attractions that can be enjoyed in San Agustín.
The cultivation of coffee and sugar cane build the basis of the economy, not only of those municipalities, but of a big part of Huila’s south. The ‘ panela,’ produced in this zone, is exported even to Europe. Further, San Agustín was the winner of ‘La Taza de la Excelencia Colombia’ in 2011, in its ninth edition, a contest of the National Federation of Coffee Producers which rewards the country’s best coffee production each year.
Arnulfo Leguízamo Giraldo was the winner, with a special coffee, that now is commercialized in the United States. On his farm ‘ primavera’ in the village called ‘El Tabor’, part of the municipality of San Agustín, he attends visitants that like to know the process of planting, caring, collecting, washing and drying of one of the best coffees in the world. Here, Leguízamo offers his coffee, already roasted and ready for consumption, a packing with its personal stamp.
Apart of coffee, sugar cane production is common for the zone. The ‘panela’ is made out of its juice, a basic aliment of Colombia.
Its traditional production in mills is frequent, especially in Isnos, famous in Huila for the quantity and quality of its ‘panela’ production. On the sides of the paths and streets, it is common to observe those constructions. The mills don’t produce every day, but without any doubts you will realize when you encounter one which is being used even from far away, because of the dense smoke coming out of its chimney.
In those places you will learn about the process form the liquid over the grinding of the cane to the final product, one of the country’s most common ailments. Adults can enjoy the visit in the same way as children because it is possible tasting and buying ‘panela’ and other freshly prepared products.
Adventure sports
Imagen: Abseiling in San Agustín
The geography, the rivers and the climate of San Agustín and Isnos offer perfect conditions for adventure sports like rafting, abseiling and torrentism. The beauty of the Magdalena’s rapids, its waterfalls and its natural stone walls attracts an increasing number of tourists.
The region’s most popular adventure sport is river rafting. This sport consists in crossing rivers quickly in inflatable boats. The beginners and occasional practitioners leave from the bridge of Isnos and finish their trip in Versalles. Persons from the age of 12 can participate, experiences are not required. The whole trip takes around two hours.
Who is classified as intermediate level, leaves from the Magdalena’s narrow and the experts from the river Mulales, 18 km from San Agustín’s center, passing the Magdalena and finishing their trip at the Magdalena’s narrow.
The abseiling consists in descending vertical surfaces with the help of ropes and harnesses. It is practiced on stone walls and waterfalls, in the last case, the most commune ones are ‘Los tres Chorros,’ ‘El Cinco.’ ‘La Muralla,’ and ‘ El Silencio’
Caving, the possibility to access caves for scientific reasons or for fun is regularly practiced in the region. There are caves nearby like the one of ‘El Alto Naranjo,’ localized at 20 minutes of San Agustín and other situated in the neighbor municipalities like for example Pitalito.
In any case, it is important to be accompanied by a professional guide. Companies with specialized personal offer those services, with guides that explain the security requirements. The practitioners of river rafting are thought how to act inside the boat and oars are provided as well as suits for maintaining the body temperature, life jackets and helmets. One of the guides travels in kayak for taking pictures and assisting in case of an accident.
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Ministry of Commerce, Industry and Tourism
National Tourism Fund
Edition: Foundation Víztaz
General directorate: Oscar Botero Giraldo
Art direction and graphic design: Julián Arbeláez Estrada
Executive Leadership: Paula Ramírez Salazar
Advisor in anthropology and archeology: Diego Herrera Gómez
Assistant in graphic design and production: Johan Muñoz Cano
Text: Felipe Sosa Vargas y Diego Herrera Gómez
Correction of text and style: Dadiana Giraldo Giraldo
Photography: Sandra Zea Uribe, Oscar Botero Giraldo, Jaime Barrientos and Arturo Giraldo
Further photography: Colombian Institute of Anthropology and History – ICANH, Magdalena Rafting and Julio César Granados
Print: Panamericana Shapes and Forms AG ISBN pending
All rights reserved. The reproduction and publishing of this documents or parts of it requires the authorization of the Ministry of Commerce, Industry and Tourism. Bogotá, Colombia, South America.